Pretty dimensional shimmering white flowers and leaves with aurora borealis sparkle
This unsigned set, presumably c. 1950 from the manufactory of Delizza and Elstar NY, is very beautiful and has a layered appearance. The flower leaves motif are set with opaque milk glass navettes. The stones are glass and not made of plastic, the feel is cold. The center milk glass stone of the flower brooch has an entourage of aurora borealis ‘chaton cut’ stones. All stones are prong set.
This exceptional set has many of the typical D&E features, including: figure eight puddling, milk glass navette stones, and open and closed back settings to the settings on the back side of the brooch. “Fat” stones, traditional forms, and use of opaque glass indicative of a relatively early set, I think c. 1950s. Trifari has some milk glass stones in 1950s designs. I guess the white stones were very fancy in the sixties. to me they have a timeless summer look.
In 1947, William DeLizza and Harold Elster founded DeLizza & Elster, also known as D&E, in New York City. Their idea was to design and manufacture a bit of sparkle after World War II. Over the next several decades, until the firm closed in 1990, the company’s client list was fast, more than 800 firms. All the big names in costume jewelry land had designs made at this factory like Coro, Sarah Coventry, Kramer, Weiss etc. Because D&E produced unsigned jewelry for so many third parties, identification can be tricky. I did a lot of research to find similar designed pieces. They were all called Juliana D&E but none had them verified by experts.
In 1967, D&E decided to create a brand of its own by attaching paper tags with the words “Juliana Original” on some of its pieces. Jewelry historians who interviewed Frank Delizza, found out that the original “Juliana” was DeLizza’s mother. They also determined that a very limited number of styles were sold on paper cards or with hang tags reading Juliana, and only for one year in 1967. Many other pieces D&E made throughout the 1960s share the same construction techniques and similar components, however. On eBay and other auction websites most of the unsigned pieces from the factory are called ‘Juliana D&E’ even though they were not produced in 1967 🙂
The necklace, brooch and earclips are in excellent condition. Minor wear to the gold plating only little scratches seen with my 10X head loupe. The bracelet, called a clamper, however has some colour loss. It still is gold plated but less sparkly as the other items in this set which look unworn. A bracelet of this age has had more to endure.